Reviews

96 John Gilman, View from the Cellar

“The Petaluma Gap bottling from Model Farm is from the family’s “estate” vineyard, on which they started their project with a long-term lease back in 2013. Sean and Joanna farm this cool, two acre parcel of syrah organically. The 2019 version is absolutely stunning, coming in at an even thirteen percent alcohol, having been one hundred percent whole cluster and raised entirely in four used French casks. The bouquet shows plenty of youthful spiciness from the stems, soaring from the glass in a very complex blend of cassis, black raspberries, black olive, gorgeous spice tones, smoked meats, dark soil tones, lavender, pepper and a touch of black tea in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, complex and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, stunning mineral drive, ripe, firm tannins and a long, tangy and superbly balanced finish. While this wine is loaded with complexity and personality, it is stunningly light on its feet and so transparent down to its underlying soil tones. This is the finest wine I have yet tasted from Sean Castorani and Joanna Wells (and I have been a fan since the very first sample bottle that the couple sent me)! 2033-2075+.